Are your BMW door locks not working correctly?
Having trouble getting the doors unlocked?
Have you had to ask passengers to climb in through the driver's side or through a window?
Does is seem to be worse on hot or cold days?
If the answer to any of these questions is, Yes, then I might be able to help you with my GM5 repair service.
NEW - Frequently Asked Questions page. Check it out if you have a question that you think probably gets asked a lot.
First of all this web site is mostly about the BMW General Module 5, aka GM5, GMV, ZKE5 and ZKEV, hence the web address, www.BMWGM5.com. Anyway, this module is used by BMW in a number of different vehicles built in the 1998-2008 time frame. Here is a quick list of vehicles that use the GM5: E46 - 3-series between 1998 and 2005, E85 - Z4 between 2002 and 2008 and the E52 - Z8 all years. If you have an E90 or E91 - 3-series 4-door or coupe from model year 2006 on, you do not have a GM5 module in your car and the problem is most likely the door lock actuators. This is a BIG problem on E90's and E91's from beginning of production through Nov 2008. More information can be found on the BMW Service Information Bulletin SI B51 19 07. Please don't contact me if you have a E90 or E91, I cannot help you. You most likely have a blow fuse and need the door lock actuators replaced.
I have a couple new web pages. One for the FZV Antenna Amp and one for the EWS - Immobilizer. Check them out if you are having problems with your key fob transmitter or starting your car.
The GM5 is used to control a variety of different
functions. Here is a list of functions this module handles:
By the way, this is also the list of things that won't work when the GM5 module
is removed. The car will run and drive just fine except for the items listed
below.
Power window control (up and down control of windows)
Remote entry (locking and unlocking via key fob and central locking button)
Trunk release (unlocking via key fob, handle button and interior trunk release
button)
Vehicle alarm (siren, tilt & sonar sensors and clown nose light)
Windshield wiper control
Interior lights
Ok, that's great, but, what's the deal with my door locks?
Most problems are either the door lock actuator
assembly or the GM5 module. Sometimes the problem is hard to determine. For
some reason, GM5 problems occur with unlocking much more often than locking.
Here are a few tell tale signs for determining which is the faulty part. This
comes from many of my GM5 repair customers.
4-door - all 4 doors fail to unlock -> GM5
4-door - all 3 passenger doors fail to unlock -> GM5
4-door - only 1 of the passenger doors fails -> Actuator
2-door - both doors fail to work -> GM5
2-door - only the driver's door fails -> could be either
2-door - only passenger door fails -> could be either
Problem seems to be worse in hot or cold weather -> GM5
Fuel filler door doesn't unlock either -> GM5
Ok, so if it's a GM5 problem what can I do about it?
1) You can get a new one from the dealer. That will set you back about $400, not including installation or programming which will add about $300 for a total of about $700. Even if you do the installation yourself you will still need to get the module coded to your car by a dealer or service shop with the right equivalent. The dealer will likely charge 1 hour labor or about $100-120.
2) You can send the module to me for relay replacement. I charge as little as $90 including Priority mail return shipping slightly more if you want it shipped back faster. For more information check out my Repair Service web page.
3) I also offer a drive up service at my home in Torrance (about 17 miles south of downtown Los Angeles). Bring your car by and I'll do all the dirty work of getting the GM5 module out, I'll do the relay replacement and put everything back together. You don't even have to touch a screwdriver or get your hands dirty. Repair Service
4) You can buy the door lock relay, V23084-C2001-A303, from me and do the relay replacement yourself. Click on the link to find out how and for prices. Note that these relays have 10 pins each and are soldered to the circuit board. They are not in sockets and they are not easy to get out. I have had many people try replacing the relays themselves only to end up damaging the circuit board and sending it to me for repair. Some people think they did a stellar job only to find out that the problem is worse or just different than before. This is a classic symptom of the board being damaged in the repair process. I can repair boards that have been damaged attempting your own repair, but, I charge EXTRA to fix other peoples mistakes! Here is a page you should review before attempting to repair this yourself. Common Problems
5) Complain to the National Highway Traffic Safety Act, www.nhtsa.org safety complaint online form. This won't get the problem fixed, but, at least you can be added to the growing list people with this problem and if enough people file a complaint NHTSA may require BMW to acknowledge the problem and come out with a fix, but, don't hold your breath. It may take years for anything to be done and mostly likely nothing will be done.
My story
About a year ago my, 1999 323i 4-door started having
door lock problems. Mostly the problem was that all 4 doors would stay locked
when it was hot inside the car like when it's parked in the sun. After running
the A/C or driving with the windows open the door locks would start working
again. At the time when I searched the web I found all kinds of suggestions.
Replace the door lock actuator, spray silicone lube on the actuator, the key
fob battery needs to be changed, central locking button got coke or coffee
in it, GM5 module is bad. Then I happened upon a guy in the U.K. that figured
it out. He found out that the problem was the two door lock relays in the
GM5 module. After much searching he found a place in Hong Kong that had them
for about $50USD a pair plus outrageous shipping charges. The problem he described
was exactly like mine. Being an electrical engineer I decided I'm going to
fix my GM5 myself. I started looking for relays and could not
As far as I can tell it was used onto the door lock problem that occurs on the BMW E46. This is the 1999-2005 BMW 3-series. With the weather getting warmer this problem is likely getting worse and worse. Better in the morning or in the evening, but, a pain in the ass during the day. If this sounds like your problem you need the two door lock relays in the GM5 module replaced with new Tyco V23084-C2001-A303 relays.
Module Repair Service:
I offer a mail in repair service as well as a drive up repair service,
where I remove the module from your car, repair it and put everything back
together. You don't have to touch a screwdriver or get your hands dirty. For
all repair services please go to my Repair
Service page.
If you are an electronics tech and want to replace the relays yourself you can order just the relays. They are $30 for a pair plus $3 shipping within the US or $6 shipping outside the US. You can send payment via PayPal to scott@bmwgm5.com. Just as a warning these relays are NOT easy to replace. More and more relay customers have been sending their module to me to have the damage fixed. This service is the same price as the module repair service above, but, next day service is not available. Finding the damaged traces & holes is not easy or quick. (This assumes that new relays that you tried to install are still useable.)
BMW E46 General Module 5 (aka GM5, GMV, ZKE 5 or ZKE V)
Repair for Door Lock/Unlock Problem
Also applies to E85 (Z4), E83 (X3) and E52 (Z8)
I'm interested in your Repair Service
I want to order some of those V23084-C2001-A303 relays to fix my door locks.
NEW - Solid State Door Lock Relay Project - NEW
NEW - Moon Roof/Sun Roof Page - NEW
Relays for the Front Windows, V23078-C1002-A303, are also available. Go to this page for more information. GM5 Front Window Relays
If you have a E90, E91 or E92 BMW and have door lock problems take it to the dealer. The dealers know all about the door lock problems on your car. I though BMW really screwed up on the E46 door locks. I was wrong! They really screwed up on the E90 series. Check out all the links at the bottom of this page on the E90post.com forum.
NEW - I just replaced one of the rear window regulators on my 4dr and created a nice DIY with pictures DIY on replacing rear window regulators on E46 sedans.
NEW - Pictures of a door lock actuator from an E46 M3.
NEW - Wirelist for connections to the GM5 module.
I have a E46 BMW (1999 323i 4 door) and like many other people I had a problem with the door locks that caused them to not unlock. I've had to ask passengers to climb in through the drivers side. I've even put my 8 year old daughter in through the window.
I decided to get to the bottom of this problem myself since there was no definate answer to this problem. Some people were saying it's the actuators. All four of them are magically intermittant at the same time, I don't think so! Some suggested recoding the key (key recoding procedure). It's not the key, the central locking button has the same problem! One guy says it's definately a gunked up center console button, but my button works, except for unlock and I can hear the relay clicking. If it were shorted out it wouldn't work for lock. Some suggested the general module. What's a general module? Hmmm, I should research that one! I did and this web page is a result of my research.
In my particular car, the doors would lock every time, but, would not unlock every time. On hot days it usually didn't work and on cooler days it would work most of the time. (Update - I've gotten a few comments that the fuel filler lock will not unlock either.) I decided to crack open my General Module 5 or GM5 for short which I found behind the glove box. In my car the part number is 61.35-8 385 538. I've come across at least 14 different part number for the GM5 module. I have a list here, GM5 part numbers.
The GM5 is located behind the glove box in a
white plastic module holder. Someone on the net made a really good "How
To" on removing the GM5 from the car. You can download it here, GM5
Removal Procedure. I don't know who the author is, but, I want to give
him credit for taking the time to create this How To. I've started creating
my own GM5 Removal Procedure. That is on my NEW
GM5 Removal web page. One thing I'd like to add to the GM5 Removal Procedure.
It says to disconnect the battery. This is a real pain in the butt as you
probably know. I have poured over the Bentley service manual and it looks
like you can get away with just pulling the following fuses (still the safest
way it still to disconnect the battery though)
Fuse 9 - 5 Amps - brake light, light module, on board computer, speed control
Fuse 48 - 30 Amps - power windows front
Fuse 49 - 5 Amps - anti-theft, central locking system, power windows front,
interior lights
Fuse 52 - 30 Amps - central locking system rear lid, dome lights, glove box
light, trunk light
Fuse 58 - 25 Amps - central locking (Wagon only)
Fuse 60 - 25 Amps - central locking system
Fuse 71 - 30 Amps - power windows rear (Coupe - 10 Amps)
Once the GM5 is removed you should put Fuse 9 back in since that also powers your brake lights. I believe the others can stay out until the GM5 is replaced.
Once you get it out you can pry the door open to reveal the circuit board inside.
The connectors have little locking clips to keep the board from coming out easily. Here it is out of the case.
By probing on the board while pushing the door lock/unlock button I found that the two relays closer to the center of the board were the ones for the door lock motors. I removed the relays and stuck the module back in my car without the relays and sure enough, the door locks were completely dead. I then went about finding a pair of new relays. Someone on the web said they carefully opened their relay and with sandpaper cleaned up the relays contacts, but, when I tried to open them, I messed up one of the relay armatures. The internals are very delicate.
The original relays are Siemens V23084-C2001-A303, which are 2nd sourced by Tyco Electronics. The Tyco p/n is 1393267-2. Unfortunately they are not available from the usual places like, Digikey, Mouser, Allied Electronics, Newark, Arrow or Avnet.
Here are a few specs on this relay.
Double DPDT Mini Relay (There are two relays inside! Two independent coils
and two sets of contacts)
Nominal Coil Voltage = 12V
Coil resistance = 255 Ohms
Rate Current = 15/30 Amps
Contacts = AgNi (Silver Nickel)
After looking around at other relays I discovered that these specs are amazing for their size. Other relays that have contacts rated for 15 Amps are huge and they are typically single relays, not two in the same package like these are. Maybe Siemens spec'd these relays a little higher than they should've.
I've found some inventory at a few places that deal with excess inventory, but, they want a $250 to $500 minimum order per item. Well I bit the bullet and ordered the $250 minimum. I now have enough relays to last me a lifetime or enough relays to repair mine and a handful of other GM5's.
I now have for sale the larger relay V23078-C1002-A303 which is used in the GM5 to control the front windows as well as in the GM3 to control rear windows and door locks. These relays, V23078-C1002-A303, are available for $20 each including shipping within the US. More information.
I've installed the new relays into my GM5 and Bingo! Everything works. All my door lock and unlock just fine. It been over three months now and they've been great! Not a single problem.
So what does a bad relay look like? Well I took apart the relays and found some good contacts and some really bad contacts. It's pretty obvious which is which.
I added LEDs to each of the door lock relay coils to try and figure out exactly which relay controlled the door unlock function, but, was somewhat confused. I didn't appear that it was just one relay, but, multiple relays working together to do the lock and unlock function. I ordered the Bentley repair manual for the E46 from BavAuto. I got the Bentley manual and wow, it's amazing. I had my doubts being a non-factory manual, but, it's worth the $90 plus shipping. My only complaint is the wiring diagrams are extremely hard to follow. Wires go off the page and you have no idea where they go. I spend several hours just trying to figure out the door locks and another few hours figuring out the window motors.
Explanation of what the door lock relays are doing. <click here>
So what do the 6 relays do?
The two relays to the right are for the door locks. The center set of two relays control the rear windows and the set of relays to the right are for the Front Windows.
These relays are also doubles so each relay has two functions. I added LEDs to the relay coils and figured them out. They're for the power windows. The larger ones are for the front windows and the two smaller ones are for the rear windows. I guess that explains why some GM5 modules are missing these relays. 2dr coupes don't need rear window relays.
The larger relays, V23078-C1002-A303, for the front window relays are in. They are available for $20 each These relays are made by Siemens. Like Tyco, Siemens is a huge company with a long history of producing quality components. These aren't Chinese made knockoffs.
What doesn't work when the
General Module is out of the car?
While the GM5 is out of your car several things won't
work. Windshield wipers won't work (this could be a big problem if it rains!),
interior lights won't work, windows won't go up or down, no alarm functions
and of course no automatic door lock control (doors can manually be locked
and unlocked as long as the double lock is open.) The car is still perfectly
driveable without the module, as long as it doesn't rain. If you think it's
going to rain I would suggest waiting or applying some Rain-X. This stuff
is amazing and I have driven many miles in the heavy rain without using my
wipers at all. It causes the rain to bead up and practically fly off your
windshield, it's really amazing. It must be applied when your windshield is
totally dry. If it's wet it won't work very well.
Now that I know how to repair these things and
I have extra parts I'm going to offer my service to people who want to save
$400-600 and get their GM5 modules repaired instead of buying a new one or
a used one, that may be close to failing. I will replace the two relays related
to the door locks and return ship the unit back to you via Express Mail for
$120 (within the US only). If you don't need it back that fast then you can
save $20 and I'll send it back via Priority Mail for $90. Express Mail is
usually 1 day, but, some areas are 2 days. Priority Mail usually takes 2-3
days.
From what I've been reading some problems are caused by the door lock actuator,
some might be caused by the central locking button and some are caused by
the GM5 module. In the case of the door lock actuator it seems like only one
door will have a problem. Snikwad over on the E46Fanatics
forum always chimes in to say that it's caused by a dirty central locking
button. It definately wasn't in my case. Anyway in most cases I've heard about
where the problem is on all doors and on unlock only it was the GM5 module.
Apparently the dealer can check the system for errors and if it comes up with
failure of the GM5 relays, then there is no doubt, it needs new relays. If
you have problems with only the driver door then it could be the actuator
or the GM5 module. Ken recently emailed me to tell me that on his 2003 330i
sedan he only had problems with the driver door. He had the actuator replaced
(which really was bad) and it worked fine for a few weeks and then died again
except this time it was the GM5 relays. The dealer told him that the bad actuator
probably stressed the relays and caused them to fail. He was able to find
a place that had these relays and paid $26 each for them and had to buy 4
(this was before he discovered my web site). Now his door locks are back to
normal.
If it's only one door then it could be an actuator or the GM5 relays. I checked the schematic and it's possible for the GM5 to give you problems with just the driver door or all the doors expect the drivers or all the doors. If your problem is 1 or 2 out of three passenger doors then it's not the GM5.
How to order door lock relays.
What's the turn around time?
If you pay for Express Mail return shipping I try my
best to ship the modules back the same day I receive it. So, if you ship it
to me next day air I will do the repair within hours of receiving it and get
it to the post office before the 4pm Express Mail deadline. In most cases
you will receive the module back the next day. In some cases Express Mail
takes 2 days. If you pay for Priority Mail return shipping, I will repair
it and ship it back within 24 hours. All repairs will be done at an antistatic
workstation by a competant tech. Unfortunately I won't be able to test it
out after the repair, but, I will clean it and carefully inspect it under
a microscope to verify that the solder joints are good and that there are
no shorts or opens.
I want to
do it myself and just need the relays.
I will sell them to you, but, I don't recommend doing
this job yourself unless you are a competant solderer. The relays are very
hard to get out due to the large copper area on the component side of the
board and the use of lead free solder which has a higher melting point, about
422°F, than the old tin-lead solder which melts at 361°F. This is
not an easy job and you risk damaging the board, plated through holes and
having to replace the entire module at significant expense. One of my customers
started a nice thread on the E46fanatics web site about his experience doing
the job himself. It's a good read. Click
Here. He rated the removal of the GM5 module from the car a 3 and the
actual replacing of the relays a 7 or 8. Here's a quote, "The Soldering
portion, however, I would rate a 7 or 8 if you've never done that stuff before.
PLUS, you really need the right equipment." I totally agree, you need
to right equipment. A good powerful soldering iron and a high vacuum solder
sucker are on my list of must have tools.
Rear window relays are also available. They are actually the same as the door locks and cost $30 a pair with no additional shipping if purchased with a set of door lock relays.
Front window relays, V23078-C1002-A303 are also available. They are larger than the door lock and rear window relays and cost a bit more. They are $20 each including shipping within the US, $3 additional for anywhere else in the world.
Other Options:
Don't want to get your GM5 module repaired? You could go to
the dealer and have them fix it. Expect to pay about $650-700. If they want
to charge more than that, bitch at them. They will usually drop their price
if you're bitchy enough. You could tell them you know the price of the part
(p/n 61359116445) is less than $400, installation is about an hour and recoding
another hour. At $120/hour that's $640 total. There is also Bavarian
Auto Recycling, they have used GM5 modules for sale for about 60% off
the current BMW list price, but, remember these are pulls from cars being
parted out. You have no idea how much life is left in those relays and they
may fail at any time. Plus the dealer will have to program it to correctly
work in your car. I've sold a bunch of relays to a salvage yard down in San
Diego that had customer after customer return used GM5's because they had
the same problem as they were trying to fix. They now replace the door lock
relays themselves and sell them for more, but, no returns. Recoding will need
to be performed to get it to work properly in your car.
The best place I've found to get a new GM5 is ECS Tuning. If you have an E46 3-Series, E83 X3 or E52 Z8 you will want to search for BMW P/N 61353454607 (the latest one) or their part number ES#256026. They want $364.64 at last check. This is a brand new uncoded unit so you will still need to make a trip to your friendly local BMW stealer to get it coded. That should run about $120. If you have an E85 Z4 you will want BMW P/N 61359116445 or ECS Tuning part number ES#169326. The price is the same $364.64 and you will also need to make an appointment with the stealer for coding.
Got a comment? Want your GM5 module repaired? Just want a pair of relays? Send me an email or give me a call. My email address is scott@bmwgm5.com and my phone number is 310-283-4273.
Below are a bunch of forum threads discussing
the E46 door lock problems.
E46Fanatics.com
- "door locks are crazy" The mother of all E46 door lock threads
at over 5 years and 14 pages.
E46Fanatics.com
- "door lock"
E46Fanatics.com
- "Door lock problems"
E46Fanatics.com
- "remote won't unlock passenger door"
Roadfly.com
- "Door lock problem"
BMWLand.co.uk
- "Arrrrrgggggghhhhhh !! central lock-out"
BMWLand.co.uk
- "central locking issue"
BMWLand.co.uk
- "GM5 Module"
BMWClubMalaysia
- "Central Locking kaput.."
Awesome link to wiring diagrams for most BMW's, http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/e46/index.htm or http://wds.qclt.com/ and if that doesn't work try this one http://spaghetticoder.org/bmw/wds/
BMW General Module III (GM3) Page